DIVE LOG JUNE 2025 issue 412

JUNE 2025 | No 412 digital

AUSTRALASIA

www.divelog.net.au

MVOCEANIA/J' Our newest dive liveaboard operating out of Walindi Resort since 2019. Diving Bismarck Sea and Milne Bay

rest5ft

mv

LIVEABOARD MV FeBrina has been operating from Walindi Resort since 1991. Bismarck Sea, Including New Britain & Kavieng

Walindi Plantation Resort celebrates 40 years of operation. Diving Kimbe Bay Reefs

TRUSTED REGULATORS FOR EVERY DIVE

new system

MK17 EVO 2/C370

SCUBAPRO.COM

NEW MK17 EVO 2 WITH S620 Ti & S600 REGULATOR SYSTEMS NEW MK17 EVO 2: Substantially Smaller and Lighter The NEW MK17 EVO 2 with a new design is more compact and lighter weight than its MK17 EVO predecessor and the MK19 EVO, with a NEW forged body, dry chamber with a twin spring layout for increased reliability and compactness. For compact comfortable breathing performance in cold or silty water, the MK17 EVO 2/S620 Ti regulator system simply can’t be beat. The S620 Ti embraces the best features of SCUBAPRO’s renowned S600 in an upgraded, state-of-the-art design. Smaller and lighter than the S600 but using the same-sized diaphragm, the S620 Ti delivers excellent performance providing effortless airflow under all dive conditions. The full titanium inlet tube is ultra- light, the large purge cover improves water circulation and the exhaust tee increases performance while directing bubbles out of the field of view. The MK17 EVO 2/S600 features a NEWLY designed sealed diaphragm first stage and an air-balanced second stage with years of proven performance under its belt. The S600, with its rugged reinforced techno polymer casing and stainless steel front face and ring, provides a steady, effortless flow of air, regardless of depth or water temperature, in the most demanding dive conditions. MK17 EVO 2/ S620 TI (DIN or INT): RRP incl gst: $1613.00 (AUS$) MK17 EVO 2/ S600 (DIN or INT) RRP incl gst: $1406.00 (AUS$)

NAVIGATOR LITE BCD LAUNCH The new Navigator Lite BCD is lightweight and easily foldable, perfect for the recreational travel diver who prefers back flotation in a simple, yet durable form with the added benefit of showing off interesting color combinations. The NEW Navigator Lite is built around an Airnet® soft backpack, making it light, foldable, and travel friendly. The design is both modular and heavy-duty, with durable components that are easily replaceable if needed. The Navigator Lite also offers a new feature that no other SCUBAPRO BCD has: replaceable air cell covers that come in a choice of six color options for color-customizing your dive gear. The air cell is made of durable 420D nylon with high frequency welds, delivering generous lift capacity despite its compactness. The BCD comes with an easy-adjust Quick Cinch tank buckle system that’s teamed with a 50mm hook & loop tank strap. Together they deliver rock-solid tank stabilization in all dive conditions. The cummerbund features two detachable pockets, each with two soft D rings. These pockets can be either placed with the opening facing upwards for carrying accessories or downwards to provide quick release ballast. The Navigator Lite comes in two expandable sizes, 2XS to M and M to2XL both with generous lift capacity (170N/17.2 kg), with a bit of overlapping so you can be sure to find the perfect fit for your next dive travel adventure. The Navigator Lite is available as standard in Black, Blue and Coral, with replaceable air cell covers available in six colors. RRP incl gst: $915.00 (AUS$) OPTIONAL AIR CELL COVERS: RRP incl gst: $91.00

The MK17 EVO 2/S620 Ti regulator system. (DIN)

Navigator Lite BCD

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Albert Einstein tells us that imagination is more powerful than intellect. Imagine a healthy sea filled with abundant fish, balanced ecosystems. This is the way it should be. A blue paradise filled with whale song and healthy marine life. Exactly what we all want! The reality is mankind is still in the Dark Ages in its relationship with Mother Earth. The endless take, take, take chasing the almighty dollar without giving much back has brought us to the current situation. In 2025, every marine ecosystem in the sea is severely out of balance and unwell. Divers get to see exactly the extent of the plunder. The world needs to become aware and to begin to understand that we have a responsibility to look after our planet! - especially our ocean. There are far too many extinctions, fisheries in decline facing total collapse and rampant pollution damaging our salty paradise. World wide deforestation is hampering the carbon cycle. Excessive Combustion is loading it up. Desolation and “The Nothing” is far too prevalent both on land and beneath the sea. It is high time for the human race to see the light. Wake up, Humans! We need to look after the forests and seas better; to rebuild the Garden of Eden. Restock the oceans and the forests. In short, we need to save the planet! After all, Mother Earth gives us life. We live on the Blue Planet. It is alive; a place of adventure and discovery and pure magic spinning around a small star, our sun, in a universe of countless trillions of galaxies. Saving the planet is all so simple. You don’t need a machine to suck CO2 from the air and bury it. You don’t need to build millions of metal windmills. You simply need to plant more trees; Then, set aside large areas of the ocean as No Take zones. The ocean is badly in need of protection from the ravages of mankind. Given half a chance, Mother Nature will restore itself naturally. The birds and the bees and the fish will return; she will return the balance in a few short decades. Stop the overfishing; let Mother Nature go to work and bring back life from the brink of extinction. How do I know? It is simple! The life force that we all enjoy is one of the greatest forces of all. The powers of regeneration of Mother Nature are legendary. She can reinvigorate the planet, regenerate, rebuild and allow life to proliferate if we give her half a chance. Cyclones destroy coral reefs with forces of thousands of atomic bombs; the reefs have been rebounding, regenerating and recovering from widespread disaster for millennia. The reefs rebuild and repopulate after a few short years due their steady ability to rejuvenate. Dive Log shares the good news. The Great Barrier Reef is a shining example. The zoning system has Pink no go zones set aside for research only, green zones which are protected and blue zones where fishing is allowed. James Cook University study found that protected green zones have twice the Coral Trout population. The findings provide compelling evidence that effective protection within green zone networks can play a critical role in conserving marine biodiversity and enhancing the sustainability of targeted fish populations. They also found that the coral reef in Green Zones are in far better condition as the entire ecosystem recovers from over exploitation. Most of the rest of the world has coral reefs that have almost no protection. Visiting these coral reefs allows you to make a sad comparison. Reefs which are used for unabated fishing and spearfishing are silent zones of desolation and sorrow. What marine life remains is so frightened that the very sight of a diver sends them into panic. Diving on the blue zones is boring, devoid of life and just miserable. A ruined patch of paradise ... the Nothing. OUR COVER PHOTO Is a superb Turtle painting by Liz Hardaker. Her Facebook site ‘Whats in the Bay at Minnie Water’ is her go to site for inspiring her ‘wow bubble’ marine artwork. Check out her outstanding Spotlight on page 54.

Damage to the coral reefs is severe. My hypothesis is that the chronic unbalance caused by removing most of the fish life within the ecosystem means that disease and coral bleaching take hold and grow out of control, contributing to climate issues. NSW has the same problem. Every ecosystem in the seas of NSW are also severely out of balance. Hundreds of thousands of human predators are heading out for a weekend of hunting, as is their right, to get a feed. Most return each day empty handed. The simple reason is that there are almost no fish left to catch. Fisheries management is woefully inadequate. NSW and every state need fully protected no fishing zones to allow fish stocks to recover. Given a few short years, the fish stocks will rebound, fishers will be able to get a feed with bigger and more fish. Divers will see more fish and everyone will be happy. Short term pain for great long term gain. Once fishers see how successful this is, they will become advocates of marine conservation. Pro fishers’ livelihoods will improve and divers will see more fish. More importantly, the sharks, dolphins and big fish predators will not have half a million humans stealing some of their food. People need to learn that the fish they catch on the weekend is the life sustaining fish resource for the sharks, big fish and rays. The Top Order carnivores in the sea have their fish stocks stolen. The result is that they starve and they cannot breed. The cycle continues. The good news is that the Great Barrier Reef is managed better than most reefs in the world. It is a shining light in the conservation of the sea. Zones where mass plunder has been stopped are enabling fish stocks to rebuild and the health of the coral to improve significantly. We need the same in all states in the south of Australia. We desperately need great areas of protection for marine life in NSW to allow fish stocks to rebuild. This looks like a bitter pill to swallow for the fishers and spear fishers but there are plenty of examples around the world where a few protected reefs make spectacular recovery in fish stocks in a few short years. e.g. Komodo, Tubbataha, Wakatobi. When fishers see the dramatic benefit of having protected no take zones, they too will become advocates of some no fishing, no take zones where fish can breed. Everyone benefits. Imagine that, Albert. This magnificent issue of Dive Log features excellent reading about wreck diving adventures in Sri Lanka from Fritz Herscheid. Our resident Salvage Pirate captures the magic and adventure of exploring wrecks like few others can. Cathie and Terry Cummins take an adventure of a lifetime dive trip to Milne Bay on board M.V. Oceania. Matthew Kempton dives with Whale sharks and other marine life at Cenderiwasih Bay in Indonesia. Lynne Tuck frolics with the Leafy Sea Dragons and Carl Charter plans another great year diving with the giant Cuttles of Whyalla. Vadim Belakov goes freediving at Byron Bay with amazing photos of all sorts of big critters. Daniel Sly show us his wonderful collection of Sydney’s Pygmy Pipe Horses. Des Williams celebrates clever inventors of backyard divers. This time Merv Taylor built an Oil Drum dive helmet to dive down to nine metres under his lighthouse in Melbourne in the 1930’s. Like all of Des’ excellent stories, this one marvels at the sheer ingenuity and inventiveness of divers in the past. David Mullins gives us more great insights into Nudibranch behaviour. David Strike reveals the challenge of dealing with the diving calamities of ‘Krabbman’. The June issue of Dive Log is another great read. How blessed we are to have such a rich and diverse group of contributors sharing their love and passion for our sport. Read on, enjoy and share Australia’s longest running scuba diving publication with your diving friends. Better still, winter is the best time of the year for diving so dust off your dry suits or your 7 mm wetsuits and dive into the cool refreshing water for more adventures, exciting marine encounters and goosebumps.

Happy diving, Mike

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Features CONTENTS

JUNE 2025

digital

N o. 412 NEXT ISSUE DEADLINE : Issue 413 August 2025 Advert bookings 7th July Artwork due 15th July Editorial material : 7th July

0 15 WAKATOBI’S REEFS by Mike Scotland 023 MILNE BAY PNG Dr Terry & Cathie Cummins 036 JULIAN ROCKS, BYRON BAY by VADIM BELAKOV 042 PYGMY PIPE HORSES by Daniel Sly 054 SPOTLIGHT Paintings by Liz Hardaker 056 FROGFISH and SEXY SHRIMP - by John Magee 71 COLOMBO WRECKS by Fritz Herscheid 078 CENDERIWASIH BAY by Matthew Kempton 085 WHYALLA CUTTLEFEST by Carl Charter 088 LEAFY SEA DRAGONS - by Lynne Tuck 092 TOA MARU WW2 Wreck by Mike Scotland

EDITOR Mike Scotland mike@divelog.net.au

Editor/Designer Mike Scotland divelog@divelog.net.au PUBLISHER mike@divelog.net.au ADVERTISING mike@divelog.net.au MENTOR Barry Andrewartha barryandrewartha@outlook.com

Mike’s Contact details: Tel: + 61 0415158168 mike@divelog.net.au www.divelog.net.au Editorial and photographic contribution guidelines: divelog@divelog.net.au The views expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publishers or its editors. REPRODUCTION OF CONTENTS No part of the contents of this publication may be reproduced without the prior written consent of the publisher. All images are copyrighted by the authors and photographers.

Regulars

58 BOOK REVIEW Diving with sharks 58 - DAN News 66 - Looming catastrophe Paul Watson 67 - In Deep - Simon Pridmore 94 - Southern WrecksSteve Reynolds 96 - Steve Sinclair 50 Great Dives 97 - Dive Boat Directory 101- Parting Shots

07 - Mike Ball Expeditions 05 ScubaPro s Mk 17 Evo Reg 12 - PNG Resort Listings 19 - NudiNotes on Behaviour-

David Mullins

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Your Shot 31 - Counter Strike -David Strike 33 How to use Marine Biology 51 Historical Diving Des Williams

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DIVE LOG Australasia #412 - April ‘25

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View from the Bridge Trevor Jackson - Spoilsport Skipper www.mikeball.com/blog Great Barrier Reef on the May

PHOTOS FROM MARCH/APRIL

Minkes are a sociable mob …

by Captain Trevor Jackson There are several iconic wildlife interactions in the world that simply transcend reality. By that I mean, while you’re there, it doesn’t seem real, it seems too good to be true. Stampeding Elephants on the dusty plains of Kenya, Hump backs posturing for a mate in the blue seas of Tonga, Great Whites ambushing the cage in the chilly green of the Neptune Islands. These encounters are bucket list quality stuff, the fodder of a thousand snapshots, of endless dinner party stories, the excitement, the thrill, the awe … it’s all happening. But there’s one I’ve left off my short list, one that conjures up not only the emotions and thrills I just mentioned, but also feelings of hope and of peace, of good things in our future … one that reminds us of true beauty , true grace … MINKES. Every year, for just a short 6 week window, Dwarf Minke whales arrive for their winter layover in the Ribbon Reefs. Just 100 miles north of Cairns, the Ribbons provide a sanctuary from the high seas for what is arguably the most curious creature on earth. Indeed, its not just seeing Minkes that is the mindblower, it’s the way they seem to want to see you as well. Here’s how it works … the vessel searches for a short time and finds, or is approached, by a small group of Minke Whales, usually just two or three to start. The engines are switched off. Moments later, as the boat begins to drift, an eddy of calm water is formed on the windward side. Two long lines are trailed from the boat and the snorkelers swim out. Within minutes, we are drifting easily down wind. Minkes are a sociable mob and like to get together when somethings going on, so before long , the two or three, have become ten or fifteen! After 20 or so minutes, the whales begin to swim in ever decreasing circles. 20 metres, 15 metres, 10 metres, 5 metres….Closer and closer until they are within arms reach … Sliding by in epic silence. A giant black eye peers right into your soul. You cant help but ask … “What’s that whale think of me?”. You’re reminded that the world has a place for all creatures, and we are just one of them. To say swimming with Minkes is ‘life changing’, would be to reaffirm what almost everyone says, the moment they climb from the water. I often see folks looking out to sea with a strange calm about them, as though they had finally found something they’d been looking for, all their lives. I realize it must seem like an exaggeration and I guess there’s no real way to prove it, unless of course, you experience it for yourself. See you on board.

1st. David George

2nd. Max Ebel

3rd. Máté Rudas

Coral Sea & Great Barrier Reef! The Best Diving on the Dive with giant potato cod, explore deep walls, witness shark action at Osprey Reef.

New Special Expeditions! Check out our website for details.

Ribbon Reefs Suited to both Divers and Snorkelers.

www.mikeball.com T: +61 7 4053 0500 E: resv@mikeball.com #spoilsportlive #mikeballdive

Minke Whale Expeditions June and July 2025.

Check out Minke Expeditions on Spoilsport. www.mikeball.com/availability

“The reef systems here are some of the most pristine I have seen anywhere in my dive travels around the globe, and Wakatobi resort and liveaboard are second to none. The diversity of species here is brilliant if you love photography.” ~ Simon Bowen

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DIVE LOG Australasia #412 - JUNE ‘25

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Up to one third of diving deaths are due to heart conditions, mainly in divers aged 45 or more.

Many of these divers were unaware of any problem.

Diving includes many stresses on the heart, including: immersion itself, exertion, breathing restriction, and gas changes in the body, among others. PREVENTION: Have your heart health checked by a diving doctor at age 45, or earlier if unwell.

Photo by Dave Bryant

Don’t dive if feeling unwell.

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The Australasian Diving Safety Foundation

The Australasian Diving Safety Foundation (ADSF) is an Australian-based Health Promotion Charity. The main aim of the Foundation is to reduce diving-related illnesses and deaths.

The ADSF supports its aims predominantly by undertaking research, providing education on diving safety, and offering grants for relevant research, diving safety promotions, dive medical training, oxygen equipment and AEDs. Funds have been allocated to support up to AUD$250,000 per year for appropriate research projects. In addition, the ADSF offers grants of up to AUD$25,000 to fund safety- related projects within the diving industry . Full details of these grants, as well as applications are available at http://adsf.org.au.

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LOLOATA ISLAND RESORT www.loloataislandresort.com

DIVE KOKOPO & WATER ADVENTURES www.facebook.com/kokopodiveandwateradventures

Luxury Island Resort with 68 - rooms/villas, two restaurants and bar, a swimming pool, recreational beach, fully equipped dive shop, spa and conference centre. Importantly, it sits on the edge of the Papuan Barrier Reef and 29 dive sites around the island where experienced divers can explore its reefs, spectacular sea life and shipwrecks.

Instruction, gear rental, WW2 wrecks, wall dives, reef dives, muck dives, shark dives. Full resort facilities, land & marine tours, wifi, pool. At Kokopo Beach Bungalow Resort with tropical bungalows in the heart of Kokopo-Rabaul with private beachfront. diving@kbb.com.pg

There are also excellent snorkelling sites. Loloata’s PADI-certified dive and activities centre is opened now, so learning to dive is also now an option. t: +675 7108 8000 / 7914 3966 e : gm@loloata.com

NIUGINI DIVE ADVENTURES www.niuginidiveadventures.com

TUFI RESORT www.tufiresort.com

Discover Tufi in a boutique resort with 180 degree panoramic views over the sea and the only fjords in PNG. Experience diving in a secluded paradise with abundant sea life, coral reefs and wrecks. The warm crystal clear waters of Tufi are a divers paradise. Gear rental, water activities, village stays, cultural and land tours. 24 air conditioned ensuite guest rooms, pool, full resort facilities. reservations@tufiresort.com Fly across mainland Papua New Guinea to remote and magical Karawari Lodge. The lodge overlooks the Karawari River whose waters flow towards the Sepik River. Stilted villages line the edges of the waterways. Dugout canoes glide by. Lodge guides introduce guests to the complex and mysterious tribal culture. Conversations with villagers are fascinating. Photo opportunities abound.

The only dive company established within ‘beautiful Madang’; the PADI certified facility, NDA is one of the most experienced dive operators in Papua New Guinea. NDA offers resort courses taught by our team of multi-lingual, PADI certified instructors and dive masters. The crystal clear waters surrounding Madang offer some of the world’s best diving

experiences for divers to discover. Most dive sites are only 5-10mins away! Underwater peaks climbing from 600m to 4m and sheltered lagoons where old wrecks, dating back to World War II, are waiting to be explored... Contact info: nda@madangresort.com

KARAWARI LODGE www.pngtours.com

TAWALI RESORT www.tawali.com

Instruction, gear rental, Nitrox, 22 ensuite rooms, Broadband, full resort facilities.Where it all started, discover the dive sites that place PNG into the world class map of scuba diving. Situated on a limestone bluff backed by densely rain

forested hills overlooking the clear and protected water of Milne Bay, Tawali offers travellers a unique location to dive, relax and enjoy the unspoiled wonders of this magnificent part of the world. reservations@tawali.com

service@pngtours.com

AMBUA LODGE www.pngtours.com

RONDON RIDGE www.pngtours.com

Explore mainland Papua New Guinea based from eco-friendly Ambua Lodge. The lodge is nestled in the highlands, overlooking the magnificent Tari Valley, home of the famous Huli Wigmen. Visit their traditional lands and learn about their fascinating culture. Follow walking trails through mid-montane forest, over traditional vine bridges and along clear mountain streams to secluded waterfalls. Watch for Birds of Paradise.

In the mountains of mainland Papua New Guinea, above the town of Mount Hagen, sits Rondon Ridge. Rising mists enhance the lodge’s panoramic views of the historic valley below. Orchids thrive here. Hours of walking trails offer opportunities to spot exotic birds, including Birds of Paradise. Lodge

guides share the history and traditions of the Melpa people. Rondon Ridge is conveniently accessible on scheduled flights between Port Moresby and Mount Hagen. service@pngtours.com

service@pngtours.com

PACIFIC OCEAN

• Diving is possible all year round with the optimal season typically from mid April to mid June, and mid September to mid December.

KAVIENG

NEW IRELAND

MANUS ISLAND

VANIMO

BISMARCK SEA

• Water temperature from 26º along the edge of the Coral Sea and up to 31ºC in the Bismarck Sea. • Visibility ranges from 50 to 150 ft • PNG has a hyperbaric chamber maintained to international standards • The use of permanent environmental moorings ensures minimal anchor damage to reefs. • Weekly flights to Port Moresby from Singapore, Hong Kong, Tokyo, Manila, Kuala Lumpur, Honiara, Nadi. Daily flights from Cairns, Brisbane, Sydney. • For the best dive and air package pre-book your complete tour with a recognised PNG dive travel specialist.

RABAUL

WEWAK

KIMBE BAY NEW BRITAIN

MADANG

TARI

HOSKINS

MT HAGEN

GOROKA

PAPUA NEW GUINEA

BOUGAINVILLE ISLAND

LAE

SOLOMON SEA

GULF OF PAPUA

TUFI

PORT MORESBY

MILNE BAY

ALOTAU

www.walindiresort.com

www.lissenung.com “Instruction, gear rental, 8 rooms (6 with ensuite, 2 with semi ensuite), free WiFi, full resort facilities. A visit at Lissenung Island Resort is truly exclusive! info@lissenung.com

Instruction, gear rental, Nitrox, 12 bungalows, 8 plantation house rooms, all ensuites, internet, pool, full resort facilities, English. Voted the 'Best diving from a resort anywhere in the world', Walindi comprises fern-draped bungalows set in tropical rainforest gardens on the shores of Kimbe Bay.

resort@walindifebrina.com

MV OCEANIA LIVEABOARD www.mvoceania.com

www.mvfebrina.com

Gear Rental, Nitrox, 10-12 passengers, English MV FeBrina cruises from Walindi Resort, diving Kimbe Bay, Witu Islands, Fathers Reefs, Rabaul and New Hanover. febrina@walindifebrina.com

Gear Rental, Nitrox, 16 passengers, English

MV Oceania is the most recent liveaboard addition to Kimbe Bay. A 27 metre catamaran, Oceania began operation in 2019 with itineraries including Kimbe Bay, Witu Islands and Fathers Reefs as well as further afield at select times of year. reservations@mvoceania.com

Image credit David Doubilet

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Exploring Wakatobi’s treasures

Ornate Lobsters are communal cave dwellers

text and photos by Mike Scotland

We want to enjoy the exhilaration that comes from that passing encounter with that Eagle Ray, Bump Head Parrotfish or Coral Cod. Wakatobi does all that. Here is what it took to make it happen and why the resort of Wakatobi is so important. She is a shining light in a world of dive tourism; a beacon for the future and how the world should be. The model for this conservation success has taken a few decades to develop and bear fruit.

W akatobi is what divers want! It is the model for dive resorts for the future! How do I know? Divers want adventure. They want to commune with Mother Nature; to experience close up encounters with sharks and Rays, to discover rare and unique marine life in a serene and healthy ecosystem.

Spine Cheek Anmeone fish males are much smaller and more colourful than the female matriarch

Stunning Sea Stars

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Jawfish are so alert and quick witted.

My buddies Laurie and Tom dive the House reef wall

to not fish; this required enough money to enable them to feed their families and to maintain a better standard of living. Another part involved community consultation and providing so many sources of employment. Wakatobi currently employs and trains more than four hundred local indonesians. The money trickles into their families and everyone benefits.

Lorenz and Valentin began by negotiating use of an island for a resort. Next they had to convince local fishers to stop fishing on the reefs near the resort. I can imagine that asking fishers who depend on the sea to feed their families to survive would be fraught with so many obstacles. I have a vague idea how they did it but they did. Part of the solution was to offer to pay the fishers

The stunning White Tail Variola Cod

Massive female Green Turtle on a night dive

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Schooling Batfish

You would not believe what happened! The protected reefs rebounded, fish stocks improved and spilled over to surrounding reefs. When the fishers noticed that they catch was improving with both more fish and larger fish, they became active guardians of the protected reefs. Is there a better method of protecting the ocean than by getting the local fishers committed to protecting their livelihood? They stop illegal fishing and even police the reefs voluntarily. The result of all of this diplomacy and foresight is a living resort where divers can frolic in the ocean with abundant marine life. Better still, the fish are unafraid and used to divers which they learn are not a threat. Fish are not stupid. They quickly learn that divers are there to enjoy, not to kill. What we do not want is a dive on a reef where all the fish are so nervous and in fear that they hide as soon as they see you. Worse still, we do not want to dive on a reef with hardly any fish, no sharks or turtles.

Dive resorts around the world need to wake up to the fact that overfishing and over exploitation of dive sites leave them in a state of desolation. No diver wants to swim with dead reefs that are devoid of life and unhealthy. Sadly, this is not uncommon in some parts of the world. Many cultures depend on the sea for their livelihood but they need to preserve some breeding grounds. As more time passes, the Reefs around Wakatobi will develop better corals with even more fish life. Everyone will see the benefit of the conservation. I know that many dive resorts around the world are attempting to develop a similar strategy. I strongly advise every dive resort in the world to study the model that they have successfully developed here at Wakatobi. The end result will be a community that benefits from employment, reefs that are healthy and abundant and dive tourists that are rewarded with great diving. Another unique feature of Wakatobi is the location. The name Wakatobi is a summarised

Anemone fish looking through its sponge window

Dive staff give a detailed dive briefing before each dive

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Richly coloured Coral gardens

Cabbage coral hideaway

has many highly trained chefs and wait staff. The food is of a high standard and definitely on par with a five star international hotel standard. The owners pride themselves on the level of service provided. Guests are made to feel special and important. The staff are genuinely friendly

combination of the names of the four islands close by. There are many dive sites on the west and South west side, many in the North and South side and a few on the East side. The predominant wind direction is from the east . This means that diving is always available what ever way the wind is blowing. There is always some reef to dive that is protected and safe. Life on the island is pretty special. The restaurant

and like to get to know you and chat. For more info go to www.wakatobi.com

Crocodile Flathead lies in ambush on a night dive

Tesselated Filefish show close pair bonding

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STAYIN ALIVE THE DEFENCES OF SEA SLUGS - Part 2 Passive Defences

Behaviour By far, the best defence is without doubt the avoiding altogether of an encounter with a predator. Many sea slugs are nocturnal, only emerging at night to feed and to mate. This reduces significantly their exposure to bottom foraging fish that hunt using their eyesight during daylight hours. Others live a reclusive lifestyle beneath rocks or old coral plates or down in narrow crevices, never leaving that safety unless the food supply there is exhausted. The more primitive of the sea slugs live an infaunal (burrowing) lifestyle, many only emerging from the protection of the silt or sand to mate and spawn. Appearance Camouflage , by appearance, is a strategy

used by many sea slugs to avoid detection. Many have evolved to match the texture and/or colour of their background substrate that is often their food source whether that be plant or animal such as sponges, hydroids, bryozoans, algae or corals to such a degree that they are virtually invisible unless one knows where and what to look for. Some are known to “mimic” unrelated, that is non-dietary life forms in their habitat. Not Cognitive We must remember that in reality they are not “trying” to “mimic” at all. All the changes that are wrought to their appearance are random reproductive mutations that have proved to be advantageous to the sea slug through selection pressure in the habitat, assisted in their survival and then passed on to offspring.

Above:

Above: Found secluded beneath the overturned shell this specimen of Pleurobranchus peronii is exposed from occupying its usual daylight haunt for self-protection against predators. At night, however, it will be found foraging across the open substrate for food.

Above: Not quite infaunal living but making the most of the silty substrate to mask its presence is this specimen of Dendrodoris atromaculata . The combination of the rough tuberculate sur face of the notum and the dark patched and sandy colouration, sprinkled all over with silt works very well.

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Above: Left to Right: A difficult to perceive, undescribed species of Thordisa nudibranch upon its sponge prey. The nudibranch ringed for identification. The nudibranch, photographed off its food source, becomes readily apparent on a different background. Colour and texture can be powerful aids to concealment out in the open.

Disruptive Colouration and Patterns Of the sea slugs that aren’t brightly coloured or patterned many are drably coloured and yet others exhibit disruptive colouration - disruptive that is, against the background of their habitat. The colours, patterns, surface contours and overall shape break up their outline on the substrate making them less conspicuous. Removed from that background for whatever reason, they become incongruously obvious. Much misunderstanding was promulgated by early taxonomists of the relationship of colours and patterns of the sea slugs they described to their normal habitat as this was done without knowledge of their habitat. Underwater photographers are often tempted to relocate certain subjects to a different

background, to that which is normal, in order to obtain better definition and create a more “appealing” or defined image of the isolated subject. This can be misleading if trying to understand their true habitat situation, appearance against their natural habitat or food source. Background Imitation When you can’t hide under a rock because your food is growing out in the open and you spend the greater proportion of your life exposed upon that food source, it makes sense to be able to blend in and be inconspicuous to potential predators by impersonating the appearance of that food because it is not that food the predator is looking for. Many and varied are the textures, colours, patterns and notal appendages possessed by the sea slugs to achieve that.

Above: The nudibranch Miamira alleni - An excellent example of a sea slug whose presentation mimics a life form in their habitat that is not related to their food source. The large nodular appendages resemble the branches of a xeniid octocoral, common in their habitat, an appearance that probably goes a long way towards explaining why such a large, not uncommon, nudibranch went undiscovered for so long. It is a sponge feeder in the Chromodorididae family.

Above: What looks like a partially eaten sponge colony is actually a nudibranch. This undescribed species of Atagema has contours, texture and colouration in the form of a sponge colony. There are only a few large predators of sponges due to their toxic and spicule-laden nature, certain nudibranchs being some of the few to have adapted to the diet and also turned it to their protective advantage, as will be explained later.

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Above: A number of aeolid nudibranchs of the Phyllodesmium genus have developed intricate cerata that in structure and colouration mimic the branches and polyps of their soft octocoral prey. Here, on the Left , is Phyllodesmium rudmani with cerata that closely resemble, Right , the polyps of Xenia sp. soft coral, when in the closed position including the darker shading along the lines of closure. When amongst their host they can be most difficult to recognise, however, the rhinophores and the fact that the “polyps” that don’t open and close in the coral’s feeding method are the give-away to those in the know. Mutation and selection pressure in the habitat has caused many species to evolve an Removed from the background of their normal substrate their now gaudy or obvious

appearance whereby those textures, colours, patterns and appendages cause them to be camouflaged upon their background food source, that is, in a sense “mimicking” it, with some species being nigh impossible to discern thereon, unless one knows what to look for and where to look. Highly derived examples include some species of Phyllodesmium with cerata that have evolved to closely match not only the colour of tentacles of their host soft coral but also structurally their size, shape and texture.

appearance belies the effect they otherwise achieve. The pelagic nudibranchs of the Glaucus genus exhibit a particular form of camouflage called countershading . They float on the surface of the ocean exhibiting a dark upper colouration and a silvery underside making them less obvious against their background from both upward and downward perspectives. To be continued …

Above: The countershading of the pelagic aeolid nudibranch Glaucus atlanticus. The animal actually floats upside down so the view from the surface, looking down, is actually the ventral side of the animal - Left. This surface is mainly dark blue with some lighter colours to represent reflection. Right The view from beneath is the dorsal side -and is silvery in colour to blend with the reflective view looking up towards the water’s surface.

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Milne Bay Adventure on Oceania

Article and photos by Dr. Terry and Cathie Cum mins.

Authors enjoying a ‘glass-out’ sunset

Travel Blog 6 Living in Cairns. Far North Queensland we often hear about the incredible diving offered in Papua New Guinea (PNG), it is just up the road and across the pond so to speak. So we had no hesitation of booking a flight to Port Moresby and on to Alotau the capital of Milne Bay - PNG’s south-eastern province. We were excited about spending 10 days diving from MV Oceania who’s normal home port is Walindi Plantation Resort in Kimbe Bay. Flying from Cairns we had no problem with extra luggage as the Air Niugini aircraft servicing Port Morsby and Alotau are reasonably large. However, we did pre-purchase extra kilos to allow for our personal diving equipment and camera gear. We were also travelled light on clothes as Oceania has a complimentary daily laundry service. Visiting the region you may want to buy some items as you travel about, so we strongly recommend you pre purchase Kina, the local currency, before you leave home or utilise the ATM at Port Morsby Airport.

Even at hotels we found credit card facilities unreliable. Milne Bay covers 14,345 km 2 of land including more than 600 islands. For divers, Milne Bay boasts 252,990 km 2 of ‘sea country’ largely protected by mountain ranges and hosts one of the most biodiverse coral reef systems in the world. Alotau is a thriving coastal and friendly community nestled in a lush tropical landscape on the Northwestern shore of Milne Bay. With a population of 276,000 inhabitants, speaking almost 50 different languages, it has a rich cultural heritage that is a testament to the spirit of its peoples. Traditional dance and music play a key role in their life, with performances reflecting a distinctive heritage passed down through multiple generations. One of the highlights is the Alotau Cultural Festival, a vibrant celebration of local customs, crafts and storytelling. We planned to arrive at the Driftwood Hotel a few days early to mitigate any potential that missed flights may lead to Oceania leaving without us, but more so because of our interest in the turbulent

Large Barrel Sponge

Making friends with a Milne Bay Walking shark

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events of WWII. Terry’s , father was a member of the Australia Infantry Force and served in Milne Bay and Cathie’s grandfather was reconnaissance photographer with the RAAF 100 Squadron. In 1942, ‘The Battle of Milne Bay’ was a critical 10-day conflict that marked the first major defeat of Japanese forces on land during WWII. Well maintained memorial tributes to those Australians, Americans and Papuans who lost their lives in the battle can be found throughout the town as a sad reminder of the bravery and sacrifice made by those who fought to defend their homelands. So we explored the township with our wonderful guide Philip Kalebo whose grandfather was also a combatant. Philip’s knowledge was imparted in a highly emotional way especially aspects of the deep impact this chapter of our South-Pacific history had on so many. But we had primarily come to dive Milne Bay’s alluring waters with its unprecedented blend of reef, wall, drift and muck diving. So with Oceania perfectly on time, we departed the wharf at the Driftwood Hotel in the late afternoon with the necessary introductions and safety briefings. We must say, Oceania ticks all the boxes in terms of facilities, service, comfort and the quality of meals and crew. Our underwater guides and engineers (Andrew, Willie, Junior, Ben, Greg & Valentine) along with skipper Dan Johnson, with his infectious Visibility throughout our adventure ranged from 7mts on muck dives to 20mts in open water. The water temperature ranged from 28 to 30 C (March) which made our Sharkskin Titanium 2 wetsuits nice and cozy. In most cases, we were able to have four dives per day, or even five with night and twilight dives. All our dives were on Nitrox. Diving depths varied from 7 to 35mts and in most cases lasted over 60 minutes to give us a total underwater adventure for the entire trip of over 30 hours. We also experienced smooth seas and no rain throughout and occasional mild currents. Topside enthusiasm, humour, storytelling and professionalism, were outstanding.

Mandarin Fish

we were constantly greeted by alluring islands with white sandy beaches, in the distance breathtaking mountain scenery, magical sunrises/sets and enjoyed the ever-present locals peddling fresh vegetables to our chef (Leonie) and hostesses (Melvin, Everlin & Meg) from their canoes. Each morning the day started with a 6 am wake-up call and first breakfast (Continental style), a dive brief at 7am and then into the water. The day then progressed through ‘second breakfast’ (full menu) after dive #1 and then dive #2, dive #3, lunch, Dive 4, etc., throughout our trip. Of course there was always tea, coffee and snacksavailable. A nice touch was the warm towels offered between dives and access to the deck toilet/shower if you did not want to return to your cabin between dives or you were just busting. Our first dive was at a site called ‘Sullivans Patch’. From this early beginning we were going to realize the stunning diversity of marine life the region has to offer. In particular, the number of brittle stars, crinoids, sponges, nudibranchs and shrimp species we encountered on just about every dive was astonishing. At Sullivans, we dropped in on top of a sleeping Epaulette Shark where we were able to get some close-up photos of this amazing creature. The site provided such excitement, after a short consultation with all the divers, Dan decided to offer us a second dive at Sullivans after the second breakfast and we were not disappointed. We

Crocodile fish

Shrimps

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Pipe Fish

encountered magnificent coral cover reefs, schools of Anthias, Fusiliers, Chromis, Coris, Butterfly Fish, several species of Angelfish and a Crocodile Fish. After a wonderful lunch, our afternoon dive was at a site called Wahoo Point. This proved be another very satisfying dive regardless of the absence of big fish even given its name. In fact the only negative observation we made in respect to our entire adventure was the lack of big fish which we put down to the ever-present fishing canoes that sustain the local communities. However, apart from a multitude of reef fish we encountered Scorpion Fish and ‘Bubble Coral Shrimp. Our buddy John Russel was a great addition to our four-person underwater team as he constantly kept an eye out into the depths to bring to our attention the sighting of any pelagics, sharks and mantas. Meanwhile, John’s wife Linda, was a wizard at finding nudibranchs and other small critters for us and her to photograph. The afternoon found us moored at the Tawali Leisure and Dive Resort’s jetty. Here we enjoyed our first experience with a combination of muck and night diving. We needed to be cautious as the entire jetty was home to numerous Lionfish and consequently not a place you want to carelessly place your limbs. Additionally, the site has a sizable population of Needle Urchins. However, what had our attention was the variety of nudibranch, shrimp species, small fish and colourful sponges that colonized the jetty poles making for some spectacular photographs. Meanwhile a rare treat was a pair of Mandarin Fish that darted in and out of some coral rubble and on the sand, a Mantis Shrimp that is yet to be described.

The next morning we found ourselves at ‘Deacons’, appropriately named after our friend, fellow photographer and diving icon Kevin Deacon. Deacons is a fantastic wall dive characterized by large Gorgonian Fans, soft corals, Giant Barrel and Elephant Ear Sponges. Some divers also call this site ‘Barracuda Point’ because of the number of

The elusive Epaulette Shark rarely ventures out into the open.

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Sailing in a tropical paradise in MIlne Bay

Well camouflaged Spindle Cowrie

encounters with Barracuda they have experienced, however we were not so lucky, again no big fish, but still a very memorable dive. The rest of the day progressed with more wall diving at sites like Sponge Heaven with its small caverns harbouring a wealth of small fish species. Also apart from the large Gorgonian Fans, Sponges, and magnificent coral cover, there were schools of Anthias, Fusiliers, Chromis, Coris, Butterfly Fish, and Angelfish. John’s vigilances of the deep paid off with the sighting of a Giant Hammerhead which appeared to be heavily pregnant. John captured some magnificent footage on his trusty GoPro. At last some large fauna! Wall diving continued into the next day at ‘Tanis Reef’, ‘Cobbs Cliff’ and ‘Boia Boia Waga’. At Tanis we encountered the usual flotilla of fish life but on one of the large Gorgonian Fans we found a Pygmy Seahorse, amongst a Black Coral a Long-Nose Hawk Fish and a Painted Crayfish hiding in a crevasse. At Cobbs some of the divers came upon another Hammerhead and had a passing glimpse of

a Swordfish as it zoomed across the shallows looking for a meal. The next day we had an ‘open deck’ (i.e. multiple dives/same site) at ‘Little China’ and a follow-up muck dive at ‘Naukata’. Apart from the usual marine life at Little China, we encountered Stargazers, Stone Fish, Rockmovers, and a pair of Crocodile Fish. While at Naukata we were amazed by the variety of Nemos and coral shrimp species. The next day we experienced a great dive amongst the giant fans at ‘Shortland’ while at ‘Grant Island Bommie’ we experienced two dives and some of the best dives of our adventure. Visibility was at 20mts which made for a great vista composed of schools of Rainbow Runners, Anthias, Fusiliers, Chromis, Coris, Butterfly Fish, and Angelfish darting in and out of the giant Gorgonian Fans and Barrel Sponges. We also found a couple of Moray Eels hiding amongst the very healthy coral cover. In the afternoon we dived P38 – a USAF Lightning fighter plane that ditched after engine failure on a Vir phillippensis shrimp on Bubble Coral

Spearer Mantis Shrimp in its burrow

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return flight to Port Morsby from Milne Bay (November 1942). P38 was captained by Richard T. Cella who thankfully survived the crash and the war. The wreck was discovered by our friend the late Bob Halstead in 17m of water in 2004. Although the visibility (due to proximity to land) is poor we were able to easily identify, and photograph, the twin fuselages, wings, engines, propellers, tails and the cockpit. This is where the 10mm fisheye (Terry) and WWLC wide angle lens (Cathie) and proper strobe placement to reduce ‘backscatter’ earnt their investment.

Flambuoyant Cuttle

another superb lunch we headed to what we could have called ‘Macro Heaven’ but it is named Deka Deka. Here we did two dives including a night dive. We photographed several ‘Flamboyant Cuttlefish’ and their bigger brothers the Broadclub Cuttlefish. There were also several species of Sea Spiders, along with various species of shrimp including Coral and the illusive Smooth Beak Crinoid and Emperor Shrimps. The next morning excitement was running high as we had reached ‘Gona Bara Bara Island Manta Station’. The small station is at 15mts and a very slight current was flowing. We swatted on the sand and waited. We passed the time by watching little Hermit Crabs, Sand Gobbies and Shrimp dart in and out of their communal home. A Blue Spotted Ray circled us that seemed to herald something was about to happen. Then out of the blue he came. The Manta Ray accompanied by several large remoras headed to the reef’s clean-up squad where Wrasse and various Chaetodons feed off micro

The next morning our attention was back on the reef. ‘Waterman’s Ridge’ has a beautiful arch and swim-through at 28mts that has its walls covered in Gorgonian Fans, Whip and soft corals. A resident Batfish and schools of Rainbow Runners also greeted us as we kept an eye out for the ever present Lionfish. Our Shearwater dive computers reminded us we were on a relatively low NDL at 28mts, a result of multiple dives on multiple days that some divers stupidly ignore or are simply not aware of occurring on such extended dive excursions. A simple fix - dive safety 101 - follow the rules and keep a close eye on depth, durations and surface intervals. And has we told one guest, forget your daily ‘work-out’ program. Later that morning we dived ‘Pinnacles’ which is a series of majestic peaks rising from 30mts with large Gorgonian Fans dominating the walls, but what was impressive was the number of blennies and nudibranch species we encountered. After

Massive cement sponge

Ten armed Feather stars on a Fan Coral

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