DIVE LOG AUSTRALASIA ISSUE 413 AUGUST 25

digi tal

AUSTRALASIA

www.divelog.net.au

AUGUST 2025 | No 413

WHERE GIANTS COME TO MATE VADIM BELAKOV UNDERWATER PHOTOGRAPHY MIKE SCOTLAND RETURN TO VOLIVOLI CATHIE and Dr TERRY CUMMINS

TRITON BAY DIVERS

THOMAS HAIDER

THE ATTRACTION OF SWEETLIPS MIKE SCOTLAND The bucket list trip: GALAPAGOS. KEN HOPPEN

MVOCEANIA/J' Our newest dive liveaboard operating out of Walindi Resort since 2019. Diving Bismarck Sea and Milne Bay

rest5ft

mv

LIVEABOARD MV FeBrina has been operating from Walindi Resort since 1991. Bismarck Sea, Including New Britain & Kavieng

Walindi Plantation Resort celebrates 40 years of operation. Diving Kimbe Bay Reefs

ADVANCED. DURABLE. ALL-DAY STYLE.

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NEW Galileo 3 Titanium (G3 Ti) Titanium makes our NEW G3 both rugged and lightweight. Advanced performance yet intuitive to operate underwater. Classic design styling with a blue rotating bezel finish, make G3 Ti the ultimate diver’s watch.

The high-contrast full-color display beneath scratch-resistant sapphire glass offers easy readability. The titanium rotatable bezel with self-luminescent digits and markers has a distinctive deep blue finish, along with an efficient backlight, work together to help ensure excellent visibility in all conditions. Offering all of the functions of a next-level dive computer in addition to full timekeeping features for daily topside use, the G3 Ti’s menu design and four button controls make easy work of navigating through six dive modes, a choice of algorithms, screen styles, color themes and a myriad of other personalized dive management options. MSRP: G3 TITANIUM without Transmitter: $ 975 AUD Link to our web site: https://scubapro.johnsonoutdoors.com/eu/en-gb/shop/computers/wrist computers/galileo-3-g3-wrist-dive-computer/05103301 Galileo 3 (G3) Great New Price

The classic G3 with advanced technology is now available for a great new price. The bright screen and large dial design enhance adventure both underwater and on the surface for all-day style. NEW MSRP: G3 without Transmitter: $815 AUD Link to Web Site: https://scubapro.johnsonoutdoors.com/eu/engb/shop/co mputers/wrist-computers/galileo-3-g3-wrist-dive computer/05103101

LIMITED TIME OFFER: With Transmitter Bundles Limited Time Offer on G3 plus Smart + Pro Transmitter

MSRP G3 TI with Transmitter:

Sets. Available until September 30, 2025 only. MSRP G3 TI with Transmitter: $1185 AUD MSRP G3 with Transmitter: $1025 AUD Link to Web Site https://scubapro.johnsonoutdoors.com/eu/en gb/shop/computers/wrist-computers/galileo-3-g3-wrist dive-computer-w-transmitter-smart-pro/05103300

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EDITORIAL AUGUST There is something magical about salt water. When you swim in it, you feel exhilarated. Especially if it is cool and refreshing. The sea has a rejuvenating power that sparks awesome, thrilling feelings mixed with contentment and a satisfying sense of elation. It is a kind of ‘tune up’ for the soul, you could say. Divers share this simple pleasure with every other ocean user. We also get to enjoy more aspects of the magical properties of water. The feeling of weightlessness is always a joy. Then there is the feeling of liberation comes when you learn to dive. The simple act of breathing underwater gives us a newfound freedom from the need to surface for air. That is a huge part of the magic you get to enjoy. Lots of time exploring the ocean; your adventure begins! Once you develop a few skills and then some of us learn to attain the noble state of perfect buoyancy, you can achieve a level of total comfort and ease. I sometimes rest on the sand in a state of tranquility and take in the blue magic and just breathe deeply, as slow as two breaths a minute contemplating the serenity of the sea. That old song pops into my head... “ It’s wonderful... it’s marvellous.” Sharks never bother us. I think they sense our ‘vibe’ just as dogs do to us. “Welcome to my world” Every single drop of water on earth is filled with living things. Microbiologists tell us that millions of nano-particle sized lifeforms have been identified in every drop in every ocean in the world. It really is living soup! A magical world! I say ‘The simplest coral polyp is far more beautiful than the Mona Lisa.’ Please allow me to explain. Every cell is a living sculpture of creation. Think of the chemical makeup of DNA versus the simple molecules in paint. DNA contains millions of life giving instructions Genes, RNA versus coloured mud. The nucleus of each cell is a living computer with data bank of information and complex, sophisticated instructions to maintain life. Thousands of chemical messengers, RNA, enzymes control the living cell to maintain perfection and balance. The Mona Lisa is inert, lifeless and in my opinion unfinished. I stood before it in the Louvre thinking... it needs a lot of work. Then, I am no art expert. But this is not about my view of art. It is about the celebration of life! The coral polyp on the other hand is perfection, a living work of art! It can capture food, self replicate, breathe, grow, purify itself and lots more. It is living magic; a complex creation of Mother Nature of infinite beauty. A few moments of contemplation and understanding reveals living treasure all around us. The sea is a place of real magic, awe inspiring and totally mesmerising. The best way to really appreciate it is to dive, discover, observe, photograph; research, study, learn and learn. OUR COVER PHOTO Is a 40 year old “Selfie” with a Grey Nurse shark at Big Seal Rocks taken with my Sea Tite housing using a Nikon F and 20mm wide angle lens behind a dome port. Solo diving with twenty Grey Nurse.

Polish it with thought and swim into a never ending world of wonder and discovery. Many divers find ecstacy here! My book “Marine Biology in the Wild” is a most unique learning aid. It is a superb resource for divers and marine lovers who want to learn about the mind of mother nature. Yes, the author is university trained in Marine Biology; yes! it is thoroughly researched with many thousands of hours of study and observation. Written by an expert educator, easy to read, clearly explained with so many outstanding photographs to showcase much of the text captured over thousands of dives across the Pacific Ocean. It is a real treasure. Best of all, it is easy to understand. If you want to become an expert in Marine Biology, you can do no better than to read this invaluable resource. It is a service to the diving world and my gift to marine lovers. There is nothing like it anywhere on Planet Earth. I can hear Mother Nature saying that this book is a must read for all ocean lovers. (Actually, that is exactly what Valerie Taylor said to me about the book.) The best way to save the planet is admire its beauty and then to learn to about it. With knowledge comes action! Plan to save it. The August issue of Dive Log is the start of my ten to twelve chapter book on underwater photography. I give away hundreds of tips for free on how to take better underwater photos. If you really want to learn and you do not already know everything, this course is a goldmine for you. Your teacher (me) has 3000 photos published. Even if you use 100% computer controlled camera systems, you still need to learn about what you are doing under the water. As you get more experienced, this knowledge becomes more and more invaluable and helps you to improve. In addition, Dive Log is delighted to feature an excellent article on the Attraction of Sweetlips. Yes it’s true! One brush with these Sweetlips will have you captivated for life by these wonderful fish. David Mullins continues his outstanding, authoritative series on Sea Slug defenses. Our freediving expert, Vadim Belakhov’s great story and many superb photos of the Cuttles of Whyalla is a gem. Dr Terry and Cathie Cummins go diving at Volivoli in Fiji. Dr. Thomas Haider shares many awesome photos from Triton Bay. Ken Hoppen keeps the dream alive with his article about the Galapagos. Syed from Kids Scuba sent in a truly inspiring article about how scuba is used to break down the barriers for young disabled divers. Syed is a Malaysian PADI Course Director. This must read article will warm your heart. He works tirelessly to bettering the lives of young amputees. Dive Log features great stories from David Strike, Des WIlliams and Kevin Deacon. How lucky we are here in the “Lucky Country” with some of the world’s best diving right on our doorstep and great reading in Dive Log. Get into the crystal sea; Grow some goosebumps; groove with Gobies and Gropers and have a great time.

Happy diving, Mike

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Features CONTENTS

AUGUST 2025

digital

N o. 413 NEXT ISSUE DEADLINE : Issue October 414 2025 Advert bookings 7th Sept Artwork due 15th Sept Editorial material : 7th Sept

014 WAKATOBI WAY OF THE FUTURE by Mike Scotland 023 RETURN TO VOLIVOLI by Dr by Terry & Cathie Cummins 036 WHERE GIANTS COME TO MATE by VADIM BELAKOV 042 UNDERWATER PHOTOGRAPHY: a Personal Journey 054 SPOTLIGHT brought to you by SHARKS 056 Hairy Ghost Pipefish; Leafy Scorpionfish by John Magee 060 TRITON BAY DIVERS - by Thomas Haider 71 THE ATTRACTION OF SWEETLIPS by Mike Scotland 080 LISSENUNG ISLAND Diving in Paradise by Armin Merkel 085 THE BUCKET LIST TRIP: Galapagos by Ken Hoppen 094 DIVE HEART Malaysia by Amir Othman, Nor & Syed 091 MAGIC MUNDA by Mike Scotland 07 - Mike Ball Expeditions 05 ScubaPro s G3 Ti DIVE COMPUTER 12 - PNG Resort Listings 20 - NudiNotes Behaviour David Mullins 29 Your Shot 31 - Counter Strike -David Strike 33 How to use Marine Biology 51 Historical Diving Des Williams Regulars

EDITOR Mike Scotland mike@divelog.net.au

Editor/Designer Mike Scotland divelog@divelog.net.au PUBLISHER mike@divelog.net.au ADVERTISING mike@divelog.net.au MENTOR Barry Andrewartha barryandrewartha@outlook.com

Mike’s Contact details: Tel: + 61 0415158168 mike@divelog.net.au www.divelog.net.au Editorial and photographic contribution guidelines: divelog@divelog.net.au The views expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publishers or its editors. REPRODUCTION OF CONTENTS No part of the contents of this publication may be reproduced without the prior written consent of the publisher. All images are copyrighted by the authors and photographers.

53 Spotlight by Sharks 58 - DAN News

66 - Marine Biology book promo 67 - In Deep - Simon Pridmore 69 Aqua Claire Elizabeth Solich - 97 - Dive Boat Directory 101- Paul Watson 102- Parting Shots

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View from the Bridge Trevor Jackson - Spoilsport Skipper www.mikeball.com/blog Great Barrier Reef on the July

PHOTOS FROM MAY/JUNE

Change Things Up ...

By Captain Trevor Jackson I play in a band in my spare time. We play a bit of everything—folk, rock, Irish—and we like to change the sound up a bit too. You know when you go see some live music, and after a while the songs all blend together? We’ve tried to combat that by… well… changing our sound as the night progresses. So we might start a gig with just an acoustic guitar and voice, then add drums, then add banjo, throw in an accordion, drop the banjo and accordion and bring in a distorted electric guitar… then go back to the acoustic guitar and voice. Changing it up makes things interesting—for us and the audience. I was thinking about this very concept the other morning on our way south from Raine Island. A mile or two to our east, we were passing a sand cay that looked like it had deep water right up to its edge. This isn’t that common—usually sand cays are surrounded by a few hundred metres of shallow water. This spot looked like it had a deep-water dive site right off the beach. I wrote a note on the plotter: “Check for possible dive site/cay visit next year”… and we kept heading south. An hour or so later, we were at the fabulous Catcher’s Mitt area at Tijou Reef. Divers were coming back raving—literally raving—about hammerheads, turtles, and even a whale shark. The day was shaping up really nicely. In fact, we had already ticked so many boxes by lunchtime that I decided to throw caution to the wind and not wait till next year. I was going back to that cay then and there… we were taking a punt, changing things up. Sometimes you just gotta take a chance. At four that afternoon, we were floating above the most stunning garden of plate corals in the history of plate corals. A short 30-second swim had us standing on the gleaming white sand of a pristine cay, then back into the green and blue for more untouched beauty. I remember thinking, almost out loud… “The future of our company lies here, in places like this, in doing the out-of-the-ordinary, in doing more than simply providing the best diving in the world.” The following day really drove the point home. We’d talked about it for a few years. We’d never been there before—but this day, we were really doing it. After three fabulous dives at the iconic Pirate’s Cove, we shaped a course to the west… 14 miles to Stanley Island… and the mysterious cave art hidden amongst the stony cliffs. For centuries, Aboriginal painters had recorded the island’s animals on the cave walls, and it is here that some of the earliest known Indigenous depictions of European ships will literally take your breath away. “Imagine seeing aliens land from outer space—that’s what it would have been like.” Stanley Island was a vision of splendour. It wasn’t just the cave paintings… the cliffs, the caves, the untouched beaches—all of it—a magical way to end a week in the Far North. When I fired up the nav computer that evening, there were a few things to sort out. First, I plotted a course for Lizard Island. Then I removed the “check next year” from the sand cay. And finally, I drew a crude map of how to get to the cave art at Stanley Island. As the anchor came up and we put the island to our stern, the thought crossed my mind… It’s just like playing a gig with the band—change things up, and the house will rock.

1st. Tim Yeo

3rd. Terry Cummins

2nd. Lilly Visuthiwattanakorn

Coral Sea & Great Barrier Reef! The Best Diving on the Dive with giant potato cod, explore deep walls, witness shark action at Osprey Reef.

New Special Expeditions! Check out our website for details.

Ribbon Reefs Suited to both Divers and Snorkelers.

www.mikeball.com T: +61 7 4053 0500 E: resv@mikeball.com #spoilsportlive #mikeballdive

Check out Special Expeditions on Spoilsport. www.mikeball.com/availability

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“The reef systems here are some of the most pristine I have seen anywhere in my dive travels around the globe, and Wakatobi resort and liveaboard are second to none. The diversity of species here is brilliant if you love photography.” ~ Simon Bowen

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Up to one third of diving deaths are due to heart conditions, mainly in divers aged 45 or more.

Many of these divers were unaware of any problem.

Diving includes many stresses on the heart, including: immersion itself, exertion, breathing restriction, and gas changes in the body, among others. PREVENTION: Have your heart health checked by a diving doctor at age 45, or earlier if unwell.

Photo by Dave Bryant

Don’t dive if feeling unwell.

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The Australasian Diving Safety Foundation

The Australasian Diving Safety Foundation (ADSF) is an Australian-based Health Promotion Charity. The main aim of the Foundation is to reduce diving-related illnesses and deaths.

The ADSF supports its aims predominantly by undertaking research, providing education on diving safety, and offering grants for relevant research, diving safety promotions, dive medical training, oxygen equipment and AEDs. Funds have been allocated to support up to AUD$250,000 per year for appropriate research projects. In addition, the ADSF offers grants of up to AUD$25,000 to fund safety- related projects within the diving industry . Full details of these grants, as well as applications are available at http://adsf.org.au.

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LOLOATA ISLAND RESORT www.loloataislandresort.com

DIVE KOKOPO & WATER ADVENTURES www.facebook.com/kokopodiveandwateradventures

Luxury Island Resort with 68 - rooms/villas, two restaurants and bar, a swimming pool, recreational beach, fully equipped dive shop, spa and conference centre. Importantly, it sits on the edge of the Papuan Barrier Reef and 29 dive sites around the island where experienced divers can explore its reefs, spectacular sea life and shipwrecks.

Instruction, gear rental, WW2 wrecks, wall dives, reef dives, muck dives, shark dives. Full resort facilities, land & marine tours, wifi, pool. At Kokopo Beach Bungalow Resort with tropical bungalows in the heart of Kokopo-Rabaul with private beachfront. diving@kbb.com.pg

There are also excellent snorkelling sites. Loloata’s PADI-certified dive and activities centre is opened now, so learning to dive is also now an option. t: +675 7108 8000 / 7914 3966 e : gm@loloata.com

NIUGINI DIVE ADVENTURES www.niuginidiveadventures.com

TUFI RESORT www.tufiresort.com

Discover Tufi in a boutique resort with 180 degree panoramic views over the sea and the only fjords in PNG. Experience diving in a secluded paradise with abundant sea life, coral reefs and wrecks. The warm crystal clear waters of Tufi are a divers paradise. Gear rental, water activities, village stays, cultural and land tours. 24 air conditioned ensuite guest rooms, pool, full resort facilities. reservations@tufiresort.com Fly across mainland Papua New Guinea to remote and magical Karawari Lodge. The lodge overlooks the Karawari River whose waters flow towards the Sepik River. Stilted villages line the edges of the waterways. Dugout canoes glide by. Lodge guides introduce guests to the complex and mysterious tribal culture. Conversations with villagers are fascinating. Photo opportunities abound.

The only dive company established within ‘beautiful Madang’; the PADI certified facility, NDA is one of the most experienced dive operators in Papua New Guinea. NDA offers resort courses taught by our team of multi-lingual, PADI certified instructors and dive masters. The crystal clear waters surrounding Madang offer some of the world’s best diving

experiences for divers to discover. Most dive sites are only 5-10mins away! Underwater peaks climbing from 600m to 4m and sheltered lagoons where old wrecks, dating back to World War II, are waiting to be explored... Contact info: nda@madangresort.com

KARAWARI LODGE www.pngtours.com

TAWALI RESORT www.tawali.com

Instruction, gear rental, Nitrox, 22 ensuite rooms, Broadband, full resort facilities.Where it all started, discover the dive sites that place PNG into the world class map of scuba diving. Situated on a limestone bluff backed by densely rain

forested hills overlooking the clear and protected water of Milne Bay, Tawali offers travellers a unique location to dive, relax and enjoy the unspoiled wonders of this magnificent part of the world. reservations@tawali.com

service@pngtours.com

AMBUA LODGE www.pngtours.com

RONDON RIDGE www.pngtours.com

Explore mainland Papua New Guinea based from eco-friendly Ambua Lodge. The lodge is nestled in the highlands, overlooking the magnificent Tari Valley, home of the famous Huli Wigmen. Visit their traditional lands and learn about their fascinating culture. Follow walking trails through mid-montane forest, over traditional vine bridges and along clear mountain streams to secluded waterfalls. Watch for Birds of Paradise.

In the mountains of mainland Papua New Guinea, above the town of Mount Hagen, sits Rondon Ridge. Rising mists enhance the lodge’s panoramic views of the historic valley below. Orchids thrive here. Hours of walking trails offer opportunities to spot exotic birds, including Birds of Paradise. Lodge

guides share the history and traditions of the Melpa people. Rondon Ridge is conveniently accessible on scheduled flights between Port Moresby and Mount Hagen. service@pngtours.com

service@pngtours.com

PACIFIC OCEAN

• Diving is possible all year round with the optimal season typically from mid April to mid June, and mid September to mid December.

KAVIENG

NEW IRELAND

MANUS ISLAND

VANIMO

BISMARCK SEA

• Water temperature from 26º along the edge of the Coral Sea and up to 31ºC in the Bismarck Sea. • Visibility ranges from 50 to 150 ft • PNG has a hyperbaric chamber maintained to international standards • The use of permanent environmental moorings ensures minimal anchor damage to reefs. • Weekly flights to Port Moresby from Singapore, Hong Kong, Tokyo, Manila, Kuala Lumpur, Honiara, Nadi. Daily flights from Cairns, Brisbane, Sydney. • For the best dive and air package pre-book your complete tour with a recognised PNG dive travel specialist.

RABAUL

WEWAK

KIMBE BAY NEW BRITAIN

MADANG

TARI

HOSKINS

MT HAGEN

GOROKA

PAPUA NEW GUINEA

BOUGAINVILLE ISLAND

LAE

SOLOMON SEA

GULF OF PAPUA

TUFI

PORT MORESBY

MILNE BAY

ALOTAU

www.walindiresort.com

www.lissenung.com “Instruction, gear rental, 8 rooms (6 with ensuite, 2 with semi ensuite), free WiFi, full resort facilities. A visit at Lissenung Island Resort is truly exclusive! info@lissenung.com

Instruction, gear rental, Nitrox, 12 bungalows, 8 plantation house rooms, all ensuites, internet, pool, full resort facilities, English. Voted the 'Best diving from a resort anywhere in the world', Walindi comprises fern-draped bungalows set in tropical rainforest gardens on the shores of Kimbe Bay.

resort@walindifebrina.com

MV OCEANIA LIVEABOARD www.mvoceania.com

www.mvfebrina.com

Gear Rental, Nitrox, 10-12 passengers, English MV FeBrina cruises from Walindi Resort, diving Kimbe Bay, Witu Islands, Fathers Reefs, Rabaul and New Hanover. febrina@walindifebrina.com

Gear Rental, Nitrox, 16 passengers, English

MV Oceania is the most recent liveaboard addition to Kimbe Bay. A 27 metre catamaran, Oceania began operation in 2019 with itineraries including Kimbe Bay, Witu Islands and Fathers Reefs as well as further afield at select times of year. reservations@mvoceania.com

Image credit David Doubilet

WAKATOBI is the WAY of the FUTURE O ne of the biggest dangers for a dive resort that I have encountered, is when poachers watch where the dive sites from a distance. When the divers depart, they move in and fish the dive site and even remove target creatures for the aquaria trade. It’s despicable but it happens. There is nothing worse than spending a huge amount of your hard earned dosh to visit a remote exotic dive spot to find that their reefs are stripped of fish or the biggest fish is the size of your hand. Imagine being promised that there are Blue Ribbon Eels in a dive site only to find that they could not be found; they have been poached! This exactly what happened at one resort in the South Pacific. It is a real bummer.

Longnose Butterflyfish plucking at coral polyps.

Wakatobi has had management plans in place for decades to ensure that their prime dive sites remain at their best. In fact, left alone, Mother Nature will keep rebuilding the reef until it gets closer to that pristine state where it should be. Recently, I came across a quote from Albert Einstein. He says imagination is the greatest force in the universe. Let’s put it to the test.

Imagine the overfishing and absolute exploitation of the world’s oceans stopped Immediately! Every marine ecosystem in the world would begin to recover and return to the abundant living paradise that it should be. The current state of the ocean around Sydney is that many fish species are maintained at 2 to 10 per cent by fisheries management, I believe. Imagine what would happen if they allowed fish stocks to climb

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Spine cheek Anemone fish.

to fifty per cent of the maximum! The fact is that lots of fish take five to seven years to reach maturity and begin to breed. Wakatobi has reefs that are like those wild imaginings! How did they do that? Two Swiss brothers Lorentz and Valentin dreamt of this paradise more than thirty years ago. They imagined a perfect resort, formulated a plan and began to look for a suitable location. After many trips to remote locations, they decided on the S. E. tip of Sulawesi. This spot is 2 and a 1/2 hours East from Bali by plane. Fast forward to today. Lorentz has systems in place that have five levels of protection. The House Reef has full protection. As you go further and further from the resort, the levels of protection are more relaxed but still effective. Once you have dived at Wakatobi, it becomes the gold standard. The way the world should be! The sad fact is that when you go to a resort that does

not have any sort of environmental protection, it is most disappointing. The lack of marine abundance is immediately disheartening. Sadly, this is far too common. As I see it, Dive resorts will only survive in the future, if they can manage their dive sites more effectively. I visited another country some months ago. All of the dive sites were fished and speared regularly. It is Desolation Row; the Nothing; the

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When you go to Wakatobi, your stay has a positive impact in a number of ways. Income generated from your visit supports their Collaborative Reef Protection Program, which delivers sustainable income to the local communities. At the same time it protects the coral reefs from non-sustainable and destructive fishing methods (such as cyanide and dynamite fishing). Collaborative reef protection Through its Collaborative Reef Protection Program, Wakatobi provides sustainable income (as well as electricity and other support) directly to the local communities both in the form of lease fees (which limit fishing on and damage to the reefs) and employment of several hundred local villagers in the resort. The program currently protects more than 30km of reefs and is policed by resort patrols as well as local villagers. The benefits are plain to see – the health of the corals and the level of biodiversity have both improved markedly since the program began,

and the local communities have seen major improvements in their standard of living and prospects for the future. Origins of the program Prior to the program, the locals were largely dependent on working with foreign, illegal fishing boats to make a living. In the area around Wakatobi, this kind of fishing still occurs (limited however by our patrols) by boats from other areas of Indonesia or other countries. These boats are owned and crewed by people who don’t consider the pressure they are putting on the marine-life. The owners don’t pay local taxes, the crew doesn’t care where they throw anchor or deplete marine resources. In the end, locals get very little gain from this kind of activity. At the same time, the fish stocks suffer. But there is no way that anyone with a sustainability agenda could have marched in and simply told the locals to not walk on the reefs and stop supporting the foreign fishermen, as these activities provided part of their living. Instead, what was needed was an alternative source of income whereby people could choose whether

Randall’s Sailfin Goby

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they wished to preserve or destroy. They believed, and still do, that the best and most sustainable alternative is to create employment and education opportunities through responsible, conservation-linked tourism. Lorentz has a strong belief in the economic value of coral reefs. They can be though of as ‘real estate’ with a dollar value. They are not seen as worth nothing.The monetary value has always been there in the form of fish breeding, their roles in fish growth and life cycles and the economic value of human use. This includes fishing, recreational activities and anything else that could generate an income. This is exactly the thinking that could be applied to the Great Barrier Reef. It is not an empty watery domain. It the source of revenue for tens of thousands of jobs and billions of dollars in productivity. This is true especially if managed correctly. Wakatobi is more than a holiday , Wakatobi offers many opportunities to broaden your knowledge, be it for personal enrichment on

various subjects or to enhance the enjoyment of your diving. From fish behaviour to Indonesian cookery, we are sure to have something that will interest and engage you. Learn about our marine life Learn the nuances of life on the reef by taking in an evening wildlife presentation. These informative and entertaining presentations will leave you with a heightened awareness of the marine life you may encounter during your stay in Wakatobi. Check the schedule of events board in the Longhouse or the marine life library. Helping our turtles with a head start As part of their extensive conservation efforts, when they find turtle hatchlings on our beach they are immediately released into deeper water. This helps them to avoid the dangerous intertidal area, which is full of predators and gives them a better chance for survival in the wild. The number of turtles on our reefs has seen a welcome increase since they began this initiative.

Two Spot Lionfish

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Above: Crocodile Flathead on the House Reef Below: Ornate Lobsters live inside caves along the steep walls of the House reef.

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Marine wildlife shows During your stay in Wakatobi, evening wildlife shows are held, giving insights on particular aspects of marine wildlife of relevance to visitors to Wakatobi. There is an events board in the Longhouse so you can see what is to seescheduled Learn about local culture Immerse yourself in the richness of Indonesian culture, customs and local traditions through one of the resort’s Indonesian cultural workshops. Much more than just a lecture, these interactive experiences will introduce you to Bahasa Indonesia, the national language, as well as the beliefs and nuances of the region, and the people who call these islands home. Learn to dive, add to your diving skills Many who come to Wakatobi to snorkel our magnificent reefs soon wish to delve deeper. The

experienced instructors, who have an average of 3,000 dives, can provide instruction from refreshers and discover scuba experiences to advanced open water, nitrox and specialty courses. Personalized programs are offered for families, and children as young as eight can join the fun with our Bubblemaker program. Shoot like a pro Underwater shutterbugs looking to up their game can choose from a full range of pro photography services that includes one-on-one workshops and in-water sessions with Wakatobi’s resident photo pro. Based on your aspirations and current skill levels, thye can tailor both single and multi-day programs covering everything from the basics to advanced imaging and post processing. For more information go to office@wakatobi.com.

Above: There are many huge Green Turtles on the House Reef

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STAYIN ALIVE ...Continued THE DEFENCES OF SEA SLUGS - Part 3 Passive Defences Continuing the discussion on Appearance Form and Colour

background food source. Colour though, is not always everything. Sometimes the form presented by the mimic is so good that the colour hardly matters. At the other extreme, some are so plain as to be almost transparent and therein is the key to their particular form of camouflage - the substrate shows right through their body making them almost invisible against that background. Enhancing appearance through Behaviour Naturally, behaviour too plays an important role in making the camouflage process function most efficiently whereby, for example, the sea slugs might wrap themselves over and around the contours of their food or hold aloft and even move their cerata to resemble the branches of their soft coral or hydroid food through which they are moving and preying upon. Another aspect that works in favour of the sea slugs,

Part of the colour matching process can involve the retention, in the skin, by the sea slug, of ingested pigments obtained from their host, a process referred to as dietary camouflage . In some instances these pigments have been shown to also be noxious in nature. However the colour may not only be derived from pigments. Many of the sacoglossan sea slugs store chlorophyll plastids in their parapodia or cerata enabling them to closely match the colour of their host. Some of the aeolids too, adopt the colour of their food source. Some examples include the egg-eating Favorinus species that take on the colour of the ingested eggs and the coral eating Phyllodesmium species that store zooxanthellae from their diet within their cerata thus matching the

Above: Hexabranchus lacer, one species in a recently identified species complex within Hexabranchus. Left: Although bright red under the strobe lighting, in natural light it is usually quite drab and not contrasted against the background substrate. Notice the rolled-up margins of the mantle, that dorsally are the same in colour and pattern as the main notum.

Right: When this species is disturbed it unrolls the mantle margins revealing a bright red and white pattern to warn potential predators of its toxic nature. This of course is a reactive defence but is included here to demonstrate that species’ dual nature of appearance having both a passive drab “camouflage” colouration and also aposematic warning colouration as the situation dictates. Later, in the reactive defences section of this series, we will see it can take this even a step further.

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Aposematism is the opposite approach to camouflage and has some sea slugs exhibiting bright and conspicuous colours and patterns that actually attract attention. Aposematic colouration is intended as a clear warning to predators that the sea slug is noxious or distasteful and is to be avoided. This is of benefit to both prey and predator, as both will avoid misfortune. At first glance camouflage and aposematism seem opposing concepts, nevertheless there are sea slugs that employ both tactics, being normally reasonably camouflaged but turning on the warning signals when directly threatened. Hexabranchus adopts this dual strategy, as explained under deimatic behaviour in the reactive defence section. Right: Where it has laid its spawn on the bryozoans, the geometric shape of the spawn, the tight spiral, and its different colour is easily noticed by the human eye. Then it is a matter to closely inspect the bryozoan colony for the nudibranch. Here two spawn spirals are arrowed in white and two nudibranchs are arrowed in yellow. It must be admitted though that the more the bryozoan zooids are removed the more visible the animal becomes.

apart from those that are dedicated hunters and necessarily swift movers, is the fact that sea slugs mostly don’t move around too much. An almost static lifestyle, the lack of discernible movement while feeding, surely aids detection avoidance. Spawn Tip-off The one thing that often betrays their presence, to us as sea slug searchers anyway, is the spawn they lay on their food, although it is doubtful this aspect denounces them to a predator. The usually different coloured spawn arranged geometrically as a spiral is a most obvious cue to the human eye. Above: Idaliadoris maugeansis is a small semi-transparent nudibranch that feeds on encrusting colonial bryozoans. Left: This close up makes it a little easier to see the nudibranch on its host but from a little further away it can be difficult to detect, that is, to visually separate it from its host if you don’t know what to look for. The semi-transparency and its markings blur the lines.

Above: The discodorid nudibranch Jorunna hervei photographed upon its sponge food. Not only does the nudibranch emulate the texture, patterning and colour of the sponge quite closely, but its behaviour of flattening itself out and contouring its body to the shape of the sponge ensures that it is very difficult to detect. Often though, its spiral spawn laid nearby will be the only give-away - to the human eye anyway. The rhinophores are just discernible on the animal’s left and the gill to the right.

Above: The coral eating Tenellia viei exhibits behaviour that reduces its chances of detection. This aeolid nudibranch moves slowly over the hard coral consuming the polyps. It lays its crowded cerata out horizontally upon the coral’s surface thus mimicking to some extent the coral’s surface texture. Zooxanthellae obtained from its coral host diet are transported to its cerata where, as well as supplying food as by-products, their colour assists further in helping it to blend in.

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Above: A small selection of dorid nudibranchs, across three genera, illustrating a range of presentations that exhibit aposematism . Bold, often contrasting colours and eye-catching patterns are actually designed to attract attention and serve to warn potential predators of their toxic/distasteful nature. This warning is of benefit to both predator and prey. Clockwise from upper left: Ceratosoma amoenum, Goniobranchus coi, Hypselodoris variobranchia and Ardeadoris rubroannulata - so many different colours and so many different arrangements.

Mimicry by congeners Mimicry by congeners is a complex subject. Here we are concerned with sea slug species visually mimicking one another for defensive purposes rather than items or food sources in the habitat or unrelated animals. Mimicry is not a conscious effort by a species to look like another. It is an evolved resemblance that has come about through selective pressure in the habitat. It is the success of those evolved changes in that habitat that sustains the mimic. The mimic is successful because it gains a

survival advantage usually in that its appearance serves to warn a predator that it may be noxious or distasteful, just like its model. The mimic may itself be noxious or not. Essentially it is also about sharing the load of “teaching” predators to avoid them. Mimicry in sea slugs is of a defensive not an aggressive nature and there are a number of categories but two are of particular significance: Batesian and Mullerian. These two categories will be explained in the next issue.

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Return to Volivoli

Article and photos by Dr. Terry and Cathie Cum mins.

Travel Blog 7

Authors enjoying a ‘glass-out’ sunset

Y ou may wonder why Fiji is so popular with us when our backyard is the Great Barrier Reef and the Coral Sea. Clearly, Fiji has remained on divers ‘bucket list’ for decades having some of the most amazing diving on the planet and as the soft coral capital of the world. Additionally, and especially for Australian and New Zealand-based divers, Fiji is super easy to access with Fiji Airlines operating direct daily flights from several international airports through their fleet of high quality aircraft and those of partners like QANTAS.

More recently, Fiji Airlines commenced return flights from LAX to Cairns via Nadi so we can be in Nadi in just over three hours, while US-based divers can do a ‘magic double’. For example, Volivoli and Mike Ball Dive Expedition have announced a joint package where divers can experience the virtues of both these premium dive operators on a single trip to the South Pacific. Groups and dive clubs can book in Australia through Diveplanit (www.diveplanit.com) and north American divers can book through Volivoli’s US sales office. So why do we go back to Volivoli? A few years ago we visited Volivoli Beach Resort located at the very tip of Viti Levu, Fiji’s main Island, for the first time. This was after hearing much hype of how good it was. It immediately became one of our favourite dive destinations mainly due to the quality of the dive resort, the 390 different species of coral, 1,200 fish species and the spectacular diving to be found in the Bligh Waters Vatu-I-RA Conservation Park

Making friends with a Milne Bay Walking shark

Wall diving at Volivoli

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(Est 2017) consisting of over 110 square kms, Fiji’s largest reserve, both for land and sea. Fiji is also extremely affordable with the Fijian dollar having favourable exchange rates with most major currencies. Flying into Nadi we breezed through the friendly staffed customs and immigration control stations and were immediately met by Volivoli’s transit representative. It is a very pleasant two hour northerly drive (with comfort stops) along Viti Levu’s west coast through small villages surrounded by sugar cane fields and stunning coastal and mountain scenery. No wasted time waiting for inter island connections on small planes and for us photographers, no additional inter-island baggage handling and fees. Volivoli is one of the best and most professionally run dive resort operations we have ever visited and that is saying something, especially after visiting so many dive operations during our professional diving careers. The diving facilities and equipment are second to none with over 300 cylinders available, ranging in size from 63 to 100s, all with pro-valves (DIN/Yoke). There is a large air bank, a four compressor system, dual nitrox membrane arrangement and quality Mares hire gear available. There is also a small beach-front dive shop which stocks essentials. So, there is no need to take anything if want to avoid the pain of lugging dive equipment overseas. Nitrox 32 is available at an additional charge. Volivoli is side-mount and CCR-friendly with a dedicated tech room. Sofnolime, 3-ltr diluent tanks and other necessities are also available. Washing gear is a breeze with three large, dedicated tubs (one each for wetsuits, regs/masks/computers and cameras). Dive staff assist with every aspect of gear washing, drying,

maintenance and storage. A major feature for photographers is having your own personalized photo kiosk. There are 14 available, all with 24/7 security storage for cameras/housings/strobes, multiple international power points, numerous USB ports and your own air gun for drying out your camera kit. There is no need to drag any of your gear to your room. The resort comfortably accommodates 60 to 80 guests. There is a choice of four levels of accommodation styles with 33 rooms and villas, all with ocean views situated on 30 acres of manicured gardens and lawns. There is a large swimming pool with swim-up bar that hosts a ‘happy hour’ daily. Meanwhile, the Vilas have their own pool if you are looking for total privacy. Regardless of the level of accommodation, all the rooms are spacious and extremely functional with good facilities including air conditioning, ceiling fans, mini fridge, coffee/tea, lots of power points, wall safe, and daily laundry service so you can travel light on clothing. The resort also has a conference centre. The internet service is free, and the reception area hosts a small shop that sells T-shirts, sun cream, hats, a limited range of batteries and some souvenirs. Meanwhile on a 10 minutes trip to Rakiraki township you will find a full range of services including markets, chemists and a hospital.

Bennet’s Butterflyfish

Coral Cod

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Pipe Fish

Trumpetfish

Volivoli has a variety of meal plans. We took advantage of the full-board plan as part of our booking and were not disappointed. Do not expect to lose weight! There are two theme nights weekly (i.e. Fijian cultural and a Beach BBQ with a traditional Kava drinking ceremony). One of the many nice things about Volivoli is the Darling family members (i.e. owners for over 20 years) and key staff often take the time to mix with guests before and/or after dinner which makes you feel right at home whilst gathering all that extra insider knowledge about the resort and the dive sites - a real blessing. Don’t leave your non-diving family, kids, friends and partners at home! Volivoli has a wide collection of non-scuba diving activities such as snorkelling, dolphin watching, fishing, kayaking and in-house Meanwhile, Soni’s ‘Island Discovery’ packages include hikes to waterfalls, ‘Snake God Cave’ and traditional villages. Or you can hire a car through the resort and do your own thing. The resort is somewhat wheel-chair friendly and although built on a hill, uses golf charts and ramps to make moving around comfortable. With eight SSI Certified instructors on staff, Volivoli is also an ideal place to do entry level and speciality courses. Volivoli’s diving is hosted by their affiliate ‘Ra Divers’. Their five purpose-built, super quick dive boats have first aid and oxygen equipment on board and have great crews/guides that provide detailed dive briefings. They take divers all year-round to over 80 world-class dive sites in nine different regions. It is just 12 minutes to house-reefs from the resort and an hour to the Bligh Waters Vatu-I-RA Daulomani Spa which gives a 15 minute complimentary foot massage to all guests.

Conservation Park. Additional diving, including night boat dives are available upon request. We completed Nitrox 32 dives at 18 different sites during our stay with maximum depth of 30mts. Except for our muck dive, we did right off the beach at the resort – chasing seahorses, we had 10 to 30 m plus visibility and relatively calm seas throughout our visit. Dive durations were mostly over an hour for us a total of 988 minutes underwater, so we were able to confirm the quality and variety of diving

Terry and Cathie living the dream at Volivoli

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Wrasse

Volivoli had not changed since our previous trip. Some say the best time to visit is in October to mid December and March to May when the water is commonly calmer and/or warmer. However we found the water temperature was a comfortable 26 to 27C in June which meant we could still dive in our 3mm suits throughout our visit. The air temperature was very comfortable but take a light raincoat as it is the tropics and afternoon storms can occur throughout the year. On a typical day we departed the resort at 8:00 am sharp (not ‘Fijian Time’) for two boat dives in the morning with conservative surface intervals to maximise bottom times on consecutive dives. We utilised a three dive option, taking a third dive in the afternoon following a wonderfully prepared lunch ashore. Nevertheless, both the 2 and 3-dive plans left adequate time in the afternoon for other activities. This is when we commonly kicked back, had a snooze in one of the resort’s several hammocks, maybe had a swim in the pool, followed by a drink at one of the bars. All our dives were guided, but far from getting in the

way of our camera lenses or making us feel like complete novices, our guide (Bloss) was dedicated to finding photographic subjects for us. Volivoli’s entire staff of 140 individuals are locals which supports the regional economy. This admirable staffing policy ensures locals get to work in the tourism industry; the divers and boat captains gain a professional qualification and in turn, we divers inherit their astonishing home-grown knowledge. Day one of our dive program saw us at a site called ‘Heart Break Ridge’, just 18 minutes of travel time from the resort. Like many of the dive sites here we found numerous swim-throughs, coral encrusted arches and a magnitude of small fish life. Then it was off to ‘Wheat Field’ where two small pinnacles come up from 30mts plus and are covered in Soft Coral and large Gorgonians Fans. Massive schools of Anthias, Chromis, Damsels, and Rainbow Runners surrounded us. We also found Banded Coral Shrimp in the smaller crevices. On both these dives we also encountered schools of barracuda along the walls. After lunch we were off to ‘A

Ocellate (Eyed) Phyllidia

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mazing’ where we found a large pinnacle and several smaller ones hosting more swim throughs, Angels, Box Fish and several species of nemos. The walls were again covered with large Gorgonian Fans, Soft and Hard Corals and a variety of Sea Squirts. Day two saw us off to the Conservation Park, where we found the best diving which made the longer boat trips well worth it. At a site called ‘Black

Alpheid Shrimp g o b y close up.

Magic’ we found ourselves surrounded by schools of

Barracuda and the ever-present Rainbow Runners. We were also lucky to photograph the relatively rare Leafy Scorpion Fish as well as several species of nemos. Then it was off to ‘Mellow Yellow’ where two bommies are covered with beautiful yellow corals that give it it’s name. We also encountered many fish species including Lionfish, Lizard Fish and a large yellow Flute Fish. Out of the blue for a single pass came one of the biggest Spanish Mackerel we had ever seen. It was great to see that the large fish species are returning to Fiji after COVID over fishing and obviously the security of the Conservation Park has had an impact. After lunch we had exploratory dives off the resort’s beach amongst the muck looking for Sea Horses, Pipe Fish and Nudibranchs and in the Mangroves, looking for whatever we could find. Day Three saw us at ‘Golden Dream’ comprising of several coral outcrops and swim-throughs surrounded by a sandy bottom. It is renowned for its

variety of nudibranchs, massive schools of coral fish, Gorgonian Fans and Whip Corals. Then off to ‘Bula Maker’ a similar site to Golden Dream with more swim-throughs, a lot of different coloured Gorgonian Fans and populated by various species of nudibranchs. Then after a late lunch we were at ‘Always Cool’ which almost turned out to be a night dive under the heavy cloud cover of an afternoon storm. Nevertheless, it was an interesting dive with the usual collection of marine life to photograph. For the next two days after the passing storm of the previous day, we spent our time in the calmer waters on the main reef adjacent to the resort at dive sites called Jemma, Show Girl, De Jarvu, Chile, Nemo’s Playground and Cannibal Cave. Apart from usual collection of marine life, wonderful swim-throughs enclouded in schools of Anthias, Chromis and Damsels these dives reflected a wide range of geographical characteristics and hosted distinctive marine life to make the dives extremely pleasant. In

Orange Anemone fish, Amphiprion periderion on a giant anemone

Dot and Dash Butterflyfish

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