DIVELOG JUNE 406

Scalloped hammerheads at Suanggi.

HAMMERHEADS SPICE AND ALL THINGS NICE S taring out into the dark water we could see countless pelagic fishes, but not the creatures we had hoped to see. This was our last chance to observe these impressive creatures we had travelled all this way to see. However, after 30 minutes, with our bottom time and air depleted in the deep water, we had to finally admit defeat and return to the shallows. Heading back into the shallows we got a fabulous surprise when nine of the creatures we had hoped to see made a sudden appearance – a school of scalloped hammerheads. This brief encounter had been worth the wait, and was one of the highlights of our recent trip to the Banda Sea in Indonesia. :: words and images by NIGEL MARSH and HELEN ROSE

The Banda Sea is a body of water in Eastern Indonesia, situated between Sulawesi and Raja Ampat. Dotted with countless islands and reefs this area is today known as Maluku, but at one time was better known as the Spice Islands. The original source of nutmeg, mace and cloves, the islands were fought over and controlled by the Portuguese and then the Dutch in the 16th century, and brought great riches to both nations. To explore the Banda Sea, divers need to join a liveaboard vessel, with most trips departing from Ambon and sailing a circuit of the nearby islands. However, for our trip we had a very special itinerary, a

crossing from Alor to Ambon, right across the Banda Sea from south to north. Sea Safari Cruises operate four traditional style phinisi schooners to destinations across Indonesia, and every now and then when the boats are relocated, they offer one of these special crossing trips. Our vessel for this trip was the 35m long Cheng Ho. Built of ironwood, the vessel accommodates up to 26 guests in 14 deluxe cabins with ensuites. Getting to Alor was the first challenge, as it took us three days and three flights from Brisbane. It was a relief to finally get there and be greeted by Mark Brodersen, the Cruise Director of Marketing/Sales for Sea Safari Cruises. We had dived with Mark on a

44

DIVE LOG Australasia #406 - June ‘24

www.divelog.net.au